The History of Wedding and Engagement Rings
Betrothal Bands
About 4800 years ago in Ancient Egypt a bride and groom exchanged rings.
It is believed that ancient Egyptians viewed the ring, a never ending metal band, as representing eternal love and as having supernatural power. Rings were worn on the 4th finger of the left hand because they thought the "vena moris" or the "vein of love" ran through it, to the head.
Then the Romans came along to play their role in history by introducing the betrothal ring. It was originally a plain iron hoop. When a lady accepted it, it became a binding legal agreement. She was no longer free, and was bound to be obedient to her husband. The gentry would wear an iron ring while indoors and a gold band while outside. By the 4th century AD inscriptions were being placed on the inside of betrothal rings.
The rush ring, named for its hasty making and quick demise, was made from leaves or grass. By the 16th century the Fede, Italian for faith, was the more popular choice. It featured two clasped hands.
Still popular today, the Claddagh ring originated from a fishing village in the UK. The 'Fishing Kings of Claddagh' designed a crest with a heart held by two hands with a crown adoring them, which represented their pledge, an "oath of love and friendship, let us reign". By the 17th century this symbol made its way onto a ring and quickly became popular with friends and lovers. It is believed that Ritchard Joyce was the original designer of the ring. The heart facing inward meant you were spoken for.
Gemstones and Diamonds
By the middle ages people started adorning their rings with sapphires and rubies. Diamonds didn't start appearing until the 15th century. They were discovered in India around 800 BC and were prized worldwide for their rarity, beauty and magical powers. The name diamond comes from a Greek word 'adamas' which means unconquerable. They were obviously amazed at the hardness of the diamond.
The First Diamond Engagement Ring
In 1477, Mary of Burgundy received the 1st diamond engagement ring from Archduke Maximillian of Hamburg. Dr. Moroltinger advised the future emperor that the diamond resisted fire and steel and stood for faithful fortitude and a lifelong partnership.
Early techniques caused gems to appear dull and even black. To compensate, goldsmiths created elaborate settings and rings. Rosettes and the Fluer-de-lis were common motifs because they symbolized the bride's purity.
The discovery of diamonds in Brazil in the 18th century added to the supply. Ladies of this time enjoyed showing off their diamonds, commonly set in crowned hearts and flowers, in the candlelight. Diamonds were made even more available with their discovery in Africa. Diamond cluster designs began to appear. Queen Victoria wanted a ring that symbolized eternity, so she chose a snake ring. She was also the first to wear a white wedding gown. (We're just glad the snake design didn't catch on as strongly.)
The Christian tradition of wearing the engagement ring on the 4th finger is new. A prayer book from 1549 states that engagement rings were to be worn on the 3rd finger of the right hand. A priest or the groom would point to the bride's 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers while saying "the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost".
Gold in the band of a ring became the requirement in 860 AD when Pope Nicolas I decreed it so. It was to signify the groom's financial commitment to his bride.
The Tradition Continues
The tradition of the wedding band and engagement ring have joyfully endured the ages, still representing enduring love and commitment. Thankfully, most cultures no longer see these rings as symbols of a groom's ownership of his bride, but as his partnership with one who freely chooses with her heart to be with him.
Today, we find many couples having custom wedding bands made to compliment each others' rings.
Making a masculine version of the bride's band is common-place these days. Please ask us how we can do this for you.